A low or softly defined nose bridge is common across East and Southeast Asia. It is not something that needs fixing - but if you would like a little more definition for photos, events or simply because you enjoy it, nose contour is one of the most effective small changes you can make.
The problem is that most nose contour tutorials are written for a higher, narrower bridge. Follow them on a low bridge and you end up with two dark stripes that look drawn on. This guide is about the softer approach that works on the nose most of us actually have.
How nose contour actually works
Contour is shadow; highlight is light. On a high nose bridge, natural shadows already fall along the sides of the nose. On a lower bridge, those shadows are faint - so the bridge reads as wide and flat, especially in front-facing light.
Nose contour recreates a soft version of those shadows and adds light down the centre. The eye reads that as a narrower, higher bridge. The key word is soft: a real shadow has no hard edge, and neither should contour.
What you need
- A cool, soft contour shade. On the nose, even more than on the cheeks, contour should look like shadow, not colour. The 4-in-1 Face Palette includes a soft contour shade intended for the nose.
- A matte highlight. Shimmer on the nose bridge can look oily and widen the nose in photos.
- A small, firm, angled brush. Big fluffy brushes put contour everywhere. Some versions of the palette come with an angled nose contour brush for exactly this reason.
Step by step
- Start at the inner brow. Place the angled brush at the inner corner of one eyebrow, where the brow meets the side of the nose. This is where the natural shadow begins on a higher bridge, and starting here connects the contour to the brow so it looks like structure.
- Draw a soft line down the side of the nose. Use very little product. Follow the side of the nose - not the very edge of the bridge - down to just above the nostril. Repeat on the other side.
- Keep the lines close enough, but not too close. Lines placed too far apart make the nose look wider; lines placed right on the bridge look like stripes. On a low bridge, aim for the sides of the nose where it begins to slope.
- Blend immediately. With a clean part of the brush or a small blending brush, soften the outer edge of each line toward the cheek until there is no visible line - only a shadow.
- Shade the tip (optional). A tiny amount of contour just under the tip of the nose, blended, makes the tip look slightly lifted.
- Highlight the centre. A thin line of matte highlight down the centre of the bridge, from between the brows to about two-thirds of the way down. Stop before the tip on a wider nose - highlight on the tip draws attention to its width.
- Check from a distance. Step back from the mirror. If you can see lines, blend more. If you cannot see any difference at all, add a little more in the same place.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | What it looks like | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Too much product | Two brown stripes | Tap off the brush every time; build slowly |
| Warm or orange shade | Looks like bronzer or dirt | Use a cool, greyish or neutral shade |
| Not connecting to the brow | Contour looks "floating" on the nose | Start at the inner brow corner |
| Shimmer on the bridge | Nose looks wider and oily in photos | Use a matte highlight |
| Highlighting the whole nose including the tip | Draws attention to width | Stop the highlight before the tip |
| Lines too far apart | Nose looks wider | Place contour where the side of the nose slopes |
Adjusting for your nose shape
- Very flat bridge: focus on the upper third, between the brows. That is where definition makes the biggest difference.
- Wide nose tip: small amounts of contour on each side of the tip, blended, and no highlight on the tip.
- Short nose: extend the highlight a little further down the bridge.
- Long nose: shade just under the tip and stop the highlight higher.
Other tools that work
If you already have a hairline shadow powder in a light brown shade, it can double as a soft nose contour - it is designed to look like natural shadow at the hairline, which is exactly the effect you want on the side of the nose. Apply it with a small angled brush, not the puff.
Keeping it in place
The nose is the oiliest part of the face, so nose contour can fade or patch by the afternoon. A thin layer of grip primer under your base and a mist of setting spray on top help it last. If your base tends to break up around the nose, this guide explains why and how to fix it.
Frequently asked questions
Can nose contour make a flat nose look higher?
It can create the impression of more height and definition by adding soft shadow at the sides and light down the centre. It is an optical effect, and it works best when it is subtle.
Should I use powder or cream for nose contour?
Both work. Powder is easier to control for beginners and blends well over a set base. Apply in thin layers.
Why does my nose contour look like stripes?
Usually too much product, a brush that is too firm without blending afterwards, or lines placed on the bridge rather than the sides. Use less and blend outward until no edge is visible.
Is nose contour noticeable in real life?
It should not be noticeable as makeup - only as a slightly more defined nose. For how to adjust between camera and in-person, see contour for photos vs real life.
Related reading
- How to contour Asian face shapes with a 4-pan palette
- Contour for photos vs real life
- How to make your forehead look smaller
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